Imagine a place with sapphire beaches as spectacular as Croatia’s, rugged peaks as dramatic as Switzerland’s, canyons nearly as deep as Colorado’s, palazzos as elegant as Venice’s and towns as old as Greece’s and then wrap it up in a Mediterranean climate and squish it into an area two-thirds of the size of Wales and you start to get a picture of Montenegro. You could easily drive clear across the country in a day – or spend a month and be left wanting more. Ironically, this tiny place is populated by giants – arguably the tallest people in the world.
There’s not a lot of it – barely 100km from tip to toe – but Montenegro’s coast is quite extraordinary. Mountains jut sharply from crystal-clear waters in such a way that the word ‘looming’ is unavoidable. As if that wasn’t picturesque enough, ancient walled towns cling to the rocks and dip their feet in the water like they’re the ones on holiday. In summer the whole scene is bathed in the scent of wild herbs, conifers and Mediterranean blossoms. The word ‘magical’ is similarly impossible to avoid.
When the beaches fill up with Eastern European sunseekers, intrepid travellers can easily sidestep the hordes in the rugged mountains of Durmitor and Prokletije, the primeval forest of Biogradska Gora or in the many towns and villages where ordinary Montenegrins go about their daily lives. Hike, mountain bike or kayak yourself to somewhere obscure and chances are you’ll have it all to yourself. This is, after all, a country where wolves and bears still lurk in forgotten corners.
The postcard-perfect walled island village of Sveti Stefan is a wonder to behold. It’s a little slice of Mediterranean heaven, with oleanders, pines and olive trees peeking between the terracotta roofs of pink stone dwellings. Content yourself with the views, as access to the island is limited to guests of the exclusive resort that owns it. Laze on the beach, take a stroll through the woods to Pržno, and go crazy taking photographs – it’s hard to get a bad shot.
Montenegro, Crna Gora, Black Mountain: the very name conjures up images of romance and drama – and this fascinating land doesn’t disappoint on either front.
itineraries

